In my previous post, I delved into the sustainability efforts of Bite, a small company with an innovative product, navigating customer requests while grappling with some packaging missteps. In this follow-up, I’ll turn my focus to a well-known brand facing significant challenges in its sustainability claims, particularly in its long-established product line: denim jeans.
As someone who doesn’t frequently purchase clothing—especially new items—I often rely on local consignment shops to satisfy my modest fashion needs for myself and my family. When I do shop, I prioritize high-quality, durable pieces and avoid synthetic materials due to concerns about microplastics and their impact on ocean and air pollution.
The wearing and washing of textiles made from synthetic (plastic) fibers is a significant source of microplastics in the environment. Approximately 16-35% of global microplastics released into oceans come from synthetic textiles, amounting to between 200,000 and 500,000 tonnes each year. Most microplastics are released during the initial washes of these textiles. Fast fashion contributes notably to this problem, as garments are often worn briefly and tend to degrade quickly due to their low quality, resulting in a higher frequency of first washes.
Big Claims, Disappointing Quality
I’ve long viewed Madewell as a somewhat sustainable brand, primarily because of its denim take-back program that repurposes old jeans into house insulation. Recently, they launched a resale initiative called “Preloved,” which aligns with a growing trend among fashion retailers. With this in mind, I decided to invest in a new pair of jeans, hoping to find a classic, mid-rise fit that would endure for years, if not decades.
Historically, jeans were crafted for durability, designed from sturdy denim that could withstand the rigors of sailors and miners. However, as demand skyrocketed throughout the 20th century, quality suffered. The average lifespan of a pair of jeans is now just 2-3 years.
After just one year of wear, I noticed troubling signs with my Madewell jeans. Lines began to appear around the waist, knees and inner thigh, indicative of elastic threads failing. While I appreciated the comfort added by the 2% elastane in the fabric, this synthetic material comes with its own set of durability and environmental concerns.
What Is Elastane? Elastane, also known as Lycra or Spandex, is a synthetic (plastic) fiber that provides stretch and has a significant environmental footprint. Its tiny threads, nearly invisible to the naked eye, are woven into denim to enhance comfort. However, elastane can degrade over time, especially when exposed to high temperatures, such as in a dryer.
When I reached out to Madewell’s customer service for assistance, I anticipated a straightforward resolution. Instead, I found myself caught in a frustrating cycle of automated responses and lengthy email exchanges. After 15 days of back-and-forth, I received a lackluster reply stating, “Thank you for your inquiry! How you dispose of them would be at your discretion.”
Determined to resolve the issue, I visited a local store, only to be offered a mere $1 refund after my jeans were scanned and found to be out of inventory— an inadequate response for a defective product.
Despite my awareness of elastane’s temperature limitations, I found it perplexing that another pair of jeans I owned remained intact.
The Reality of Madewell’s Sustainability Claims
In Madewell’s 2023 ESG report, the term “sustainable” appears 40 times. Their motto states: “At Madewell, it is important for us to do well for the planet and the people behind our products. We believe elevated design is for every single day. That the perfect jeans do exist. And that great style—and great denim—is forever.”
However, on the “Good On You” platform—an authoritative source for fashion and beauty brand sustainability ratings—Madewell receives a “not good enough” rating, with a planet score of just 2 out of 5.
A brand must meet the expectations it sets for its customers. Durability is a cornerstone of sustainable fashion; a pair of jeans should last significantly longer than one year. If Madewell’s jeans are not built to endure, they should reconsider their claims of “sustainable denim.” While marketing strategies may prioritize appealing narratives, misleading consumers through greenwashing practices ultimately erodes trust.
As consumers, we must hold brands accountable for their sustainability claims and demand transparency in their practices. By prioritizing quality and authenticity, we can contribute to a more sustainable fashion industry that truly respects both people and the planet.
Natu 